3146. EBB to Arabella Moulton-Barrett
As published in The Brownings’ Correspondence, 18, 266–271.
Casa Guidi.
Saturday & Monday [13–15 November 1852] [1]
Ever dearest dearest Arabel, I found your letter & thank you heartily though it does not altogether bring me good news. Do write again, for I shall be very anxious <about you> till I hear.
<…> [2]
Dear dearest, what vexation, what sadness, what anxiety! I do wish you had been with me freezing on Mont Cenis instead.
Half sorry I am to have sent you that letter too from Genoa, which, full of groans as it was, must have been better unsent than sent after all. We stayed ten days at Genoa, comfortably enough—in the best hotel, .. where, by the way, Lord & Lady Minto [3] & the princess Borghese [4] were staying at the same time .. and we had rooms that looked on the bay, with the sun at full summer blaze, and every convenience except a soft bed .. but I learnt a little of monastic rigidities at nights, to the aching of my bones, which may have been an advantage. Two days before we came away I had risen too to the estate of convalescence, & was able to go out with Robert & prowl through one or two churches & palaces for pictures, & enjoy the lovely climate. Lord Minto had come the same route we did, in his own carriage of course, and Wilson heard from the lady’s maids at the second table that he had had to wait everywhere for post horses & was kept so long on the road as quite to tire out Lady Minto—so that the fine people did not manage it very much better than the poor people. Oh Arabel—to look over maps & predicate which is the short way & which the long, leads to all kinds of deceptions– Depend on it, we should have achieved it both quicker & cheaper by the Nice road—only the thing is done & over now, & so is the evil of it, as I am quite myself again & none the worse for the past .. getting fatter even, which seems ridiculous to say, but I always had the knack you know, of getting fat & thin like a rabbit, in a course of hours. At Genoa, I was quite startled at myself, I had so wasted away in three or four days—but the change of climate from Lyons had been sudden & trying, & really Turin was very little better than Chambery. I would’nt live at Turin for the crown of Sardinia, noble little city as it is, & quickened to the heart by the new life of constitutional freedom. [5] Well—but all that’s over– I mean all the adversity of our journey– We lay in the sunshine of Genoa as I told you, ten days & got over it, .. and then I resisted Robert’s propositions .. “will you go by sea to Leghorn”? .. “will you go by vettura to Pisa”. No, nothing would do for me but that I would take the diligence to Pisa, making an heroic effort– Because you observe, Arabel, by sea, everybody is unhappy, & nobody sleeps much more than in a diligence .. less, indeed—and by a private carriage we were to be three days & a half on the road, paying triply. So we set off at seven one evening by diligence & arrived the next night at eleven, travelling ‘sans intermission’. As to Peninni it’s just the same thing to that child where he sleeps, or how long he is in a carriage .. I never saw such a child. He was less tired than anybody. The chief cause for uneasiness about him was the supernatural quantity of pears he managed to consume, & I do think it remarkable that he never suffered at all from this rapacity of his, though I counted six pears which fell to his share in four & twenty hours. At Pisa, arriving at eleven at night, half dead as you may suppose with fatigue, & with our hopes laid on coffee, the dear barbarians could not supply us with milk. “Nella mattina, si, ma sta notte, impossibilé affatto.” [6] I threw myself down on a bed in a state of despair– Robert says I even cried out “Good Heavens” in incipient distraction. Peninni exclaimed (not at all crossly, but quite decisively ..) “Peninni muss have Peninni’s tea.” Then outspoke the landlord & humbly proposed that, instead, we should have chicken & cheese– “Less’[’] cried Wiedeman before anybody could speak .. “Peninni tate some chitten.” So that was arranged, as a matter more of duty than pleasure as far as I was concerned, & then we went to bed & had to do with swarms of musquitos all night,—& no musquito curtains!!—no sleep till nearly four in the morning. Poor little Wiedeman’s hands & arms were spoilt for a week, to my utter vexation, but on the whole we escaped better than might have been expected. The plague of Pisa those mosquitos are. Since coming to Florence I have heard the hum of one, & that’s all– Well—but I was at Pisa. The next morning at eleven we were on the railroad, & three hours afterwards, entered Florence to our great joy, to my deep joy .. I cant tell you how pleased I felt. Dear Florence, I do love it certainly, though Robert (demoralized man that he is by the too enchanting Paris) maintains that it’s dead & dull .. which is true, .. particularly true to us who are fresh from the Parisian boulevards. Everything must be dead & dull after Paris—and Paris with the imperial vertigo on it as we saw it last. Oh yes—dead & dull we must confess our poor poor Florence to be—trodden flat too under the heel of Austria .. the people suffering from want of moral air, .. gasping for moral life under the cruel pressure. Arabel—here is the difference! here you feel the difference between a people really oppressed, and the French people oppressed after the fashion & fantasy of the English newspapers. France is asserting herself in every fact which implies a Louis Napoleon: Louis Napoleon is France; while, here, the people are down, down .. and loathing those who keep them down. It is certainly a very sad spectacle, and I dont wonder that Robert should feel saddened by it—it saddens me. Such hatred, such internal revolt & protestation as we hear on all sides—the Austrians are detested. The worst version of the Madiai story is the right one [7] —I could’nt believe it you know, on account of the badness .. but it is right, right .. all badness is credible in this place. The report runs now however, that the Grand Duke intimated secretly to Lord Roden, [8] though he could not receive the deputation, it was his intention to pardon the prisoners, taking occasion of the Grand Duchess’s approaching confinement to do so. It is expected daily, so we shall soon see– But that false man, .. even if he has promised, what is his word worth?
As we passed the ponte delle Grazie into Florence, Peninni cried in a penetrated manner,—“Poor Flolence”! .. and then, (as if the child’s heart were full) he kissed Robert & me, again & again. Wilson says he had been much too excited about Florence. For two days he stammered, every word he used, & had some of his old convulsive startings—nothing to signify, but enough to show some over-excitement which should be guarded against. You see he had heard us talking about Florence, Florence, & was wound up to a state of too sensitive expectation. We found our house looking beautiful—the carpets & curtains rather better for wear, it seems to me—chairs & beds bearing the closest comparison with the luxuries of Paris– I feel myself back in my nest again, & cant enjoy it too much. We have no fires on this fourteenth of November, nor think of fires .. and I have half forgotten my cough .. it’s all but gone .. and the chest is as free as a bird. The house might have been let three times, & once for a year, since we resolved on coming, .. but Centofanti understanding we were to be back in september & misunderstanding our plans altogether, refused every offer. He has gone to Milan, leaving his accounts & a certain sum of money—but alas, Arabel, I do fear he has cheated us, or rather is trying to cheat us—the accounts making mention of only two tenants, whereas by the testimony of the porter & other witnesses, there have been three—the house having been let eleven months out of the first twelve-month: so when Centofanti comes back there will be a “row” .. which is vexatious—but the witnesses are too many for him to struggle against the setting up of the truth. In fact, he owes us about twenty two pounds more than the twelve he has left– Say nothing of this to the Bevans, by any chance– He may explain perhaps, poor man. Certainly he has taken excellent care of the house, and we ought not to expect heroic virtues from an Italian & an ex courier. Alessandro is in a situation, which saves some embarrassment, and we have another man-servant, [9] who commends himself to Wilson by his punctuality & cleanliness & civility, & cooks very well, though I am inclined, for my part, to be very critical on his appearance, I, who am not apt to be critical on such points. He looks to me much like a subsidiary stableman—not half such a nice looking servant as poor Alessandro. There’s the consequence of engaging servants in the dark as Robert engaged him!–
Oh Arabel—my fingers have been nearly kissed off by the dear Italians—fingers by the men, & lips by the women—and everybody says .. what do you think? .. that I look much better than when I went away– Wilson & I set down that to the account of costume, & hair-dressing .. which have been freshened up at Paris—for certainly I am considerably thinner since leaving Florence. Yet I have wonderfully brightened & revived during the last fortnight, & feel very well indeed just now. The poor balia [10] came with sobs of joy, the tears pouring down her cheeks, .. siezing upon Wiedeman, kissing him again & again .. “O Dio mio, come è bellino!” [11] She almost knocked out all my front teeth with her energetic kisses– The poor balia! I am delighted to tell you that the whole story against her was a pure scandal. Eight months ago, she procured a separation from her husband before the tribunals, and in that legal paper he recognized the child, which she is expecting the birth of everyday now. She says her husband’s conduct rendered their living together absolutely impossible—in fact, he persisted in living with another woman, & she could not consent to make a third. The tribunals consented to the separation, but only for a year, on account of the youth of the parties—so there may be a reunion, after all. Then we have had Alessandro’s children here [12] .. and Madame Biondi, who is expecting to be called in to the Grand Duchess .. and Mr Stuart .. and the Cottrells & heaps of other people. Sophia Cottrell looks well & pretty—her boy is nearly sixteen months old, & has cut all his teeth except two, & has a balia still & will have, till he shall have reached the mature age of twenty two months. That’s the way we do things in Italy, tell Henrietta. He runs alone, already, & is very healthy & very sweet-tempered, Sophia says. The Cottrells were most cordial & affectionate to us—“Oh,” .. she said, in a manner that touched me .. “I never shall forget your kindness about Lily. It is a tie between us for ever.” They thought Wiedeman much grown & improved .. & “turned into the image of Henrietta” .. which, great as the compliment is, I find it difficult to accept. I can understand by it however that he is considered prettier. His dress is admired too—the pattern of his frocks was asked for twice yesterday!!—set down that, Arabel. Yes, I admire Louisa Carmichael for admiring him. You cant think how admired he has been everywhere on the road .. & here, as a matter of course! I must tell you of an adventure he had on the railroad from Turin towards Genoa, .. where he was drawing with his usual attention, when an Italian gentleman looked at his great works & was very much struck by them. A very gentlemanly & intelligent man, talking with a finesse & incision which reminded you more of a Frenchman than an Italian, .. but he was Italian, nevertheless. Much struck he was by Wiedeman’s drawings—said they were surprising .. “sorprendente,” .. & that he might turn out a Michael Angelo. “And what little hands!” “Che manine”!– He asked to shake the little hands—& so we parted. When he had left the rail-carriage, another gentleman bent forward to Robert & told him, that he was one of the most celebrated artists of Turin .. an historical painter .. the name, Gonin. [13] That was an adventure, was’nt it?
I forgot to tell you, Arabel, that I went to a dentist in Paris—yes, I did it at last—a first rate dentist too—with a beard!—& he did all that was to be done to my teeth, that is, he cleaned & filed them, & charged twenty francs, fifteen shillings & ten pence. So I shall be satisfied with Parisian dentists for the future.
We have been to see Robin Hedley & his wife. She is rather pretty, & very pleasing & amiable looking, I think,—both of them delighted with Florence, which they leave for Rome on the first of January. They will be in Paris again in April.
Is this a long letter? Robert is dunning me to go out, & declares that I never have done when once I begin to write to you. God bless & love & take care of you my dearest dear Arabel. Mention your own health when you write, or I shall think you are ill—now remember!! I tell you everything. Peninni was in great awe of the wolves, as we passed the Alps, & perfectly contented to have the windows “shutted up” accordingly. He has made great progress in talking English, & says “I” and “me” every now & then (when he thinks of it) to my consternation, as you know how I like the old pretty fashion. Yesterday he said in the most affected way, “Lily, open y window. Too ot. I tan’t bear it. Mates me sit.” (sick). Give my very best love to dearest Trippy & tell her Mrs Gordon is not married. So sorry I am that Trippy is not well. Mention her particularly always. Love to all–
Your own attached Ba
I do entreat you to write directly, Arabel. The last was no letter.
Address: Angleterre via France / Miss Barrett / 50 Wimpole Street / London.
Publication: EBB-AB, I, 516–522.
Manuscript: Berg Collection.
1. This letter is postmarked 16 November 1852, a Tuesday.
2. Six lines have been obliterated after receipt, presumably by Arabella. The passage may have referred to a situation resulting from Bummy’s presence at Wimpole Street. In letter 3134, EBB told Henrietta that their father asked Bummy to stay at the house after the funeral of Mary Elizabeth Graham-Clarke had taken place. EBB thought Bummy would be in “sad spirits” and a poor companion for Arabella.
3. Gilbert Elliot Murray Kynynmound (1782–1859), 2nd Earl of Minto, and his wife Mary (née Brydone, 1786–1853). Lord Minto was lord privy seal in Lord John Russell’s cabinet from 1846 to 1852. He had led a diplomatic mission to Italy in the late 1840’s.
4. Presumably Marie Thérèse de la Rochefoucauld (1823–94), second wife of Marcantonio Prince de Borghese (1814–86); however, he had two daughters who might have been called princesses: Agnes (1836–1920), by his first wife, Gwendoline Catherine (née Talbot, 1817–40), daughter of the 16th Earl of Shrewsbury—and Anne Marie (1844–1914), by his second wife.
5. The Kingdom of Piedmont-Sardinia was the only Italian state with a working constitution, the one King Charles Albert had granted at Turin in 1848.
6. “In the morning, yes, but tonight, entirely impossible.”
7. In April 1851, a proclamation severely limited religious liberty in Tuscany and gave the police almost unlimited powers to arrest anyone suspected of possessing a Bible. This led to a number of respectable citizens being taken into custody, including Count Guicciardini in early May (see letter 2836, note 20), and a few months later Francesco Madiai (1805–68) and his wife Rosa (née Pulini, 1796–1871). The Madiai were tried and convicted of “impiety” and sentenced to several years’ imprisonment on 8 June 1852. Francesco was sent to Volterra; Rosa, to Lucca.
8. Robert Jocelyn (1788–1870), 3rd Earl of Roden, an ardent supporter of evangelical protestantism. In late October 1852, he led a deputation of representatives from several countries that sought an audience with the Grand Duke in order to present a petition for mercy on behalf of the Madiai. The audience was refused. In a letter dated, 10 November 1852, Henry Bulwer wrote to the Earl of Malmesbury that although the efforts of the deputation had failed, he felt that it was “well to allow the Grand Duke a little time, in order to see whether, on the occasion of the approaching confinement of the Grand Duchess, His Imperial and Royal Highness may not include amongst other acts of grace the mitigation of the sentence passed upon the Madiais” (British and Foreign State Papers. 1853–1854, vol. 44, 1865, p. 633). The Madiai remained in prison until March 1853.
9. Vincenzio. He stayed in the Brownings’ service until the following July.
10. “Wet nurse”; i.e., Tecla Celavini.
11. “Oh my God, how beautiful he is!”
12. Presumably the two youngest of Alessandro Barsotti’s six children: Annunziata and Teresa (see letter 2829, note 7).
13. Francesco Gonin (1808–89), born at Turin, “was one of the first Italian artists to specialize in lithography and wood-engraving” (The Dictionary of Art, 1996, 12, 901). In 1854 he became the stage designer for the Teatro Regio in Turin.
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