[Wiesbaden—Saturday, 20 August 1859]

Saturday. 20th At Wiesbaden. Jamie arose at 6 to drink the water but hearing the Homberg springs were more beneficial took those instead and found them excellent. Delightful music played while the people went to drink and I could hear it while dressing. It was warm and I threw the windows open that the air so early filled with sweet sounds as well as odors might come freely in. Jamie came back to an early breakfast bringing an armful of flowers and Rhine grapes. He bought all the grapes for about 4 cents. White sweet and delicious they were too.

Walked during the morning through grand promenades shaded by sycamore trees and made some purchases in the Arcades. Our frames we bought of a young Tyrolese woman with a most quaint dress and such a sweet modest expression in her face but George was much afraid we should spend too much and would continually depreciate the wares and urge us away. Finally after much laughter we finished and came to dine at 1 o’ck with Mr & Mrs Crockett.

Sat in the Garden all the afternoon listening to delicious music; watching the people and sipping ice; before sun-set took a charming drive through a thickly wooded road to a Greek chapel built by the Duke of Nassau over the remains of his wife. It is in the Byzantine style of architecture with a golden-roof. The interior is in the most perfect taste imaginable. An exquisite monument, a statue of the lady, carved in Carrara reposes in the principal alcove. She lies crowned in flowers, with her slender feet gently crossed & veiled in etherealized marble. The color of the glass windows behind her is a little cold and the curtains before are of deep crimson velvet. After going to the other end of the chapel and seeing the view through immense slabs of pure ruby bohemian glass and then turning, the statue looks white as burnished silver. Altogether it is a very rare and beautiful thing and a striking tribute to her to whom it was raised. The view from it is delightful. Called at Herr Schmallt’s. Did not go to the ball but preferred remaining at home, writing &c. Read and to bed early.


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