[Martigny—Tuesday, 27 September 1859]
Tuesday 27th Up early, the day glorious, for the passage of the Tête Noire. George took a mule and engaged a Chaise à Porteurs for me while Jamie & I started off to walk while the day was yet cool. The wild grandeur of the scene and freshness of the air inspired us. We walked a mile or two before the ascent began but soon the sun beat fiercely down and we sat awhile waiting for our retinue. Soon they came in sight creeping slowly and wisely up. In an hour or two the heat was over and we again began to enjoy the wonderful beauty about us. We walked a great deal during the day—Jamie more than half way. As the afternoon approached Mt. Blanc and his attendant glaciers appeared directly before us and as the sun was setting, we entered the Vale of Chamounix. The glaciers gleamed as with a brightness of their own and their waves looked like monster chrystals in their clearness. We could not feel fatigued while such air inspired us, nevertheless when the hour came sleep was grateful.