[Paris—Monday, 2 January 1860]

Monday January 2d A New Year, a new year; we are obliged to say it again & again in order to believe that 1860 is truly here. Such a warm damp atmosphere covers the great city. They seem sorry to have us leave our snug quarters at the Hotel de l’Empire. They all came out in the street to say good-bye and urge our return. We took the train for Marseilles at 11 o’clock. Oh! how glad we were to reach our place of destination at 8 o’clock Tuesday morning and how forlorn we looked after a night’s—sleep I was going to say but perhaps want-of-sleep, is better since in the cars with 2 or three garlic-y work-men and one traveller so exceedingly drunk as not to know in the least when he should get out but was obliged to be put out by some fellow-sufferers, such were the companions shut up in the cars with us. However it was all forgotten in Marseilles where all things seemed to have suffered that “sea-change”; and we roamed about the town in & out of our old Oriental looking hotel enjoying it immensely. Sleepy as we were in the early grey of the day we chose rooms looking out upon the inner court-yard where the trees and grass were yet green and the crazy frescoes of the stuccoed walls were already something like Italy. Every time we strolled out to the town we crossed this place between innumerable columns apparently intended to shelter many but now re-echoed only our foot-steps in a gloomy ancient way. When the street was reached one would have thought Babel was about to be completed at Marseilles, such a clatter of tongues was heard. We clambered up to the top of a hill prettily laid out as a garden and sat there with the Meditteranean [sic] warming our hearts with its blue and sunny rays far far below. It was warm enough we thought and were sorry for those travellers who found the blazing rays of noon-tide burning down upon the red tiles or the white and dusty roads.


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