[Interlacken—Sunday, 1 August 1869]
Sunday August 1st at Interlacken! A week has flown. We attempted our journey to Brittany getting as far as Rouen only where one hot night “Au cinquième” and flea-bitten at that made Jamie so uncomfortable that we took counsel together and considering our short time concluded to go to Switzerland without loss of a day for coolness and rest. Anything more dirty in their habits than many of the frog-eaters cannot be imagined though it is amusing to hear J. & Mabel who do not speak a word scolding at the unfortunate race for not being English. We left our luggage by mistake in Paris through ignorance of the necessity of buying a second ticket for that but it was the cause of my falling into agreeable talk with a French lady and gentleman in the railway carriage who were extremely kind—natives of Rouen. Lissie was with us and we then passed a picturesque night overlooking the river from our single tower-like apartment. I shall never forget the scenery about Rouen or its lovely architecture. Had the weather been more favorable I am sure nothing could have prevented us from proceeding on our tour. As it was Wednesday [28 July] we passed in Paris and that night we went to Neuchatel.
We saw a most disgusting picture of French life in the railway carriage that night. Horrid! Horrid! Horrid! A woman a perfect slave to a disgusting man.
We wished them cattle, the companionship would have been preferable.
Wednesday in Paris Thursday [29 July] in Neuchatel where we drank Agassiz’ health in natural wine grown near his place—warm but beautiful.
Friday [30 July] came to Fribourg—a scene of enchantment. Sat in the old church and heard the organ.
Saturday [31 July]—Came to Interlacken where I am looking at the Jungfrau as I write.
Sunday. Warm a day of rest. Read Stopford Brooke’s sermons and sat in our room nearly the whole day. At night walked in the valley and saw the Jungfrau.
