[Lucerne—Monday, 16 August 1869]

Monday 16th We did indeed leave by rail and in the rain. At Zurich we walked about a little but the drops soon came down hot and heavy once more and drove us back to the station. We were eating a wretched luncheon of poor bread and imperfect cheese there when Mrs Chapman and Miss Jay & the children & servants appeared all looking as if they were just out of bandboxes. They were just out of Homberg which is about the same we found, being now extremely fashionable there and of course the family of our minister must appear well. We however began to feel very dowdy as is natural after so many months of travel and felt all the more so by comparison. Found ourselves by night at Ragatz; everybody talking German, the rain coming down, the place rather cheerless. However we made remarkably merry at last in one large chamber, though, at first, the repast being but second-rate we were all very hungry and I at least not quite right in spirits. Soon all was well and we parted in a happy grateful mood for the night. How we did bless Dickens for “Nincomtwitch” and Punch. We had both and were the better for it though we did think it got a little into Tom’s head. Nothing else could have caused so modest a youth to walk into our room with his hat on and announce the situation of the Cabinet in a clear voice; which he did of all people and then retired leaving us convulsed with laughter.

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