[Interlacken—Wednesday, 4 August 1869]
Wednesday more perfect if possible—went to Lauterbrunnen, ascended the Mürren. A day of wondrous loveliness. Met Mrs Kemble coming down. She did not recognize us in our Swiss costumes but we should of course know her anywhere. Lay on the grass looking towards the Silberhorn till soul and body were filled.
Walked the whole distance back to Lauterbrunnen. The springs were full, the sky was blue, the whole scene of unimagined loveliness.
What a strange contrast to all this is the life of men & women in such a gay town as Interlacken has grown to be. A magician last night was performing in the Salon, there were women gambling in the next room to me at night and altogether—altogether—it is incomprehensible.
The Jungfrau is shining now two hours after sundown with a mild radiance—the air is soft and the stars come out one by one to bless the earth. Oh this poor suffering earth! Here in the heart of all this loveliness the pain of the world seems to sting more bitterly than ever.