Diary of Annie Adams Fields

Friday 26th Very warm. Took a carriage early for Schloss Eberstein. We never can forget that drive. A road of solid masonry carried us over lofty hills and through spans of the Black Forest miles upon miles till we believed some giant wand was smoothing us a path to a yet undiscovered Paradise....

Saturday 27th Still warm. Took books and went to the woods where we read listening to the music at times coming to us with perfect distinctness as it did, from the Platz below, talked over our plans and in short passed the entire day in this coolness and seclusion. Dined at 5 then drove through...

Sunday 28th Welcome letters from home. About noon strolled out into the refreshed country and rambled over the market place, watching the peasants in their picturesque costumes, then over the lovely hil[l]s until dinner at 5. Jamie read Plato to me. Delightful day.

Monday 29th Left Baden ¼ before 7 for Strasbourg. Arrived at 9 after changing cars in a most uncomfortable and unsuspected manner “en route”. It was like the old game of stage coach; everybody thought it a duty to go distracted at once.

Tuesday 30th Ill. Dear Jamie was up early and we started at ½ past 9 for Zurich. The scenery was most lovely, so beautiful indeed and the architecture of the road so remarkable that we were wrapped in the happiness of regarding it but, just so soon as we reached Zurich the clouds descended and...

Wednesday 31st Ill. Weather Rainy.

Thursday 1st September—ditto 31st of August. Poor Jamie’s spirits run horribly low. Poor fellow! I can hardly move and what then can I do to cheer him? Tomorrow may be bright. This evening news of dear old Leigh Hunt’s death reached us! It came like a thunder-clap following so closely as...

Friday 2d September. It poured all night. We ask, as if in doubt, will it ever be fair? Jamie is so sick of the people, the smokers and gamblers &c. one is so apt to meet in hotels. I am sure he will be all right again when it is fair. In the meantime—attendons.

Saturday 3d A white letter day. Clear lovely morning. We shook hands with Zurich early and well and gay steamed down the lake (which we both declare inferior to Lake Winnipiseoge) to Horgen where we fretted ourselves with the idea of passing over a few miles of this delicious scenery in a...

Sunday 4th Heard the grand Cathedral bell ringing from the earliest dawn. Never bell talked so humanly or superhumanly as this. On its cold front is the grand old motto so that all may read what it means to say Vivos voco mortuos plango, fulgura frango. The day was fine in the morning and we...

Monday 5th Fine in the morning, walked to the Allenwinden. Low grey clouds hung about but the sun appearing at intervals threw a lovely light over the mountains. Rained a little as we descended and poured all day and night. We were afraid we should not be able to get away the next day but

Tuesday 6th We were wakened early by a wonderful sun-rise. The sky was nearly cloudless and the whole heavens and mountains and lake looked fresh as if just then first created, so fresh and pure. In the cool morning sailed to Fluelen and took carriage for the St. Gotthard pass. Drove all day...

Wednesday 7th came, we retraced our steps in the morning sun-light making all things seem fairer than before and we left forever all this glory behind us. However it is ours now, and forever. This afternoon found us at the pretty village of Beckenried on the opposite shore of Lake Lucerne. Once...

Thursday 8th How Swiss-like and pretty and clean Beckenried is. So like a retired Lucerne with the lake stretching out just at our feet. Such a clear summer like morning as we had to start on our way to Lungern. The Statue of Arnold of Winkelried was standing, still holding the spears as of old...

Friday 9th Lingered in Meyringen the day was so beautiful, went to see the Swiss carvings &c. then started for the Rosenlaui Glacier. Of this long day upon the mountains I can write nothing, but years of blessed enjoyment in these glorious heaven-born mountains were laid up then. The Swiss men...

Saturday 10th Rested ourselves on the sunny slope reading and looking at the falls till the afternoon when we steamed gently down to Interlachen.

It was Sunday and we went to the little village church. Again that night the world was bathed in Apocalyptic glory and our eyes drank every ray till the sun went down.

Monday 12th Lovely day. Started early in the morning for Grindelwald. We were warm as we drove through the valley but as we approached this glacier the stormy winds of winter slid down upon its breast and penetrated vitally. We would not drive to the Glacier fearing to injure its vast effect but...

Tuesday 13th Left the “valley of fountains” early but not before we had explored the upper portions, riding always between precipices from 800 to 1200 feet high. We reached Interlachen early passing on our way the Castle of Unspunnen where Byron wrote a part of Manfred. Went to buy the...

Wednesday 14th Lovely. Left early for Thun. Steaming up the lake of Thun between verdurous hills, snow-capped mountains or more level shores studded with chateaux. The Aar raves through the quiet picturesque town making a charming contrast with its noise and bustle. We came to Berne by train...

Thursday 15th Raining. The Aar was flowing noisily still below us as we arose and the wonderful hanging bridges looked as picturesque as possible bearing proudly their morning burthen of industrious market-women with their fruity loads. We liked Fribourg and w’d willingly have stayed if only...

Friday 16th Rainy. Jamie walked to Montreuil [sic, for Montreux] and saw Theodore Parker. I sat at home and finished Rousseau. Interesting in spite of its faults to read in this locality. Mr and Mrs Curtis & Mr and Mrs Wales were at dinner.

Saturday 17th Walked on the hill above Vevay in the warm autumnal sunshine and quite through the beautiful D’Hauteville estate. Went over the boys school too with Mr Curtis. Charming spot. We almost wished to be sent there for a term of years ourselves. Such a garden, such boating and such a...

Sunday. Walked to the old Chateau. Beautiful day but not clear enough for Chamounix. Steamed to Geneva in the afternoon.

Monday 19th Waked up in the comfortable Hotel de l’Eeu de Genève to find the sun shining in at our lofty windows and gleaming upon the lake. Peeped in shop windows, walked in the promenades, dispatched letters &c. Called upon Dr Malan. Interesting visit. Mr Wilcox also.