SD236. Mary Moulton-Barrett to Arabella Graham-Clarke (grandmother)
Published in The Brownings’ Correspondence, 1, 316–317 (in part).
[Hotel de] Rivoli; Rue Rivoli, Paris
Oct. 25th 1815
My dearest Mother—
On the 17th we left London at 5 in the Eveng. and after the carriage was ordered dear Ba seemed so unhappy at our going that it inspired my idea that it would be a material improvement to her to do so, and she jumped into the Carriage with us. Mr. M. Wyatt, who is an excellent artist, was also acceptable addition to our party. We slept that night at Rochester & the night following at Calais, having performed our Voyage in two hours and half, an excellent passage Ba & I suffering only very little from sickness and that I think more from hunger than any thing else. You cannot concieve the effect of the French boats coming out to meet us, the noise they made and the uproar of the fights—walking into the Sea to meet us, to have the honor of carrying us on Shore—all of them half naked & quarrelling for the freight. Edward was rather rebellious, however it was all in vain they hoisted him off their shoulders, and away we all went, set down on the very fine sands, from whence we had to climb a ladder to the magnificent pier. After going to have our passports examined at the Customs, we went to Quillacs hotel, an enormous house in which there is a theatre &c an excellent supper & champagne were most aceptable to us, and a Magnificent bed-room of 30 feet long, perfectly clean. We did not take out own Carriage, but hired a German barouche at Calais, for our journey. We had four horses paying for hire at 1s & 3d each for every five miles, called a post where we changed horses. The lower & middle classes of women never wear hats, but their high white Caps, with very little hair, and very long gold earrings, short petticoats, & bodices all of different colors, & universal light blue stockgs. give them a most picturesque appearance, from Calais to Boulogne they are singularly handsome, since that place, we think them all very plain. On the 20th we slept at Boulogne, on the 21st at Abbéville a most magnificent and excellent Inn, (The Arch Duke of Austria had slept in our room there the night before on his way to England) on the 22d. at Clermont, that day we breakfasted at Chantilly to see to superb Stables of the Prince de Conde, his Chateau was destroyed in the Revolution, but he is now going at 80 yrs of age to inhabit a smaller house remaining—that Eveng. we reached Paris, seeing the superb church of St. Denis, where the kings are buried. We drove to six or seven hotels before we could find apartments at any. Each Story in these houses consist of a distinct small lodging house with Kitchen, all are magnificently furnished, & for the lower stories you pay 15£ a week English: Ours, the only we could get, is the fifth story. Three pretty bedrooms, a Kitchen Anti room & Sitting room, with French windows opening on a balcony which looks upon the Thuillerie Gardens, & Palace, so that we see the King whenever he goes out, & when he shows himself at the windows, which is once Every day after Mass—fancy us lying in bed, & looking upon the Thuilleries gardens! I am delighted with our abode, tho’ it does put one out of breath to arrive at it. I am interpretre for Edwd. & Mr. Wyatt, neither of whom understand a word of French—a terrible deprivation! We brought with us a French Servt. & Rosa. The magnificence of the Thuillieries & Louvre as Buildings exceed all description. Nothing in London can be compared to it, but when we see the gallery of the Louvre, a quarter of a mile long, Enriched with superb gilding, & marble Columns, & adorned with the choice pictures of all the fine Masters, words can give no idea of the impression. Beneath this gallery are the superb Halls containing the Statuary the finest in the world, much more interesting, & inspiring to me than the pictures, but Oh! how melancholy to see this superb receptacle of the arts, deprived of half its treasures! it is filled with workmen taking down those that remain and packing them up—it is supposed to be restored to their ancient proprietors—never again will such an assemblage of all that genius and form of beauty exist. Paris is crowded with English, but I have not yet seen a soul I know but Lord & Lady Harcourt who I met this Morng. in the Louvre. Mr. Trivanson is gone to Brussels. We went last night to the Theatre. The acting is excellent—in short I am delighted with all I see beyond expectation. The amusement is … & … & nothing but seeing my darlings would reconcile me to quitting France so soon as we propose to do. We have taken this house for a fortnight from the 23d. I fancy then we shall take our departure. Write to me if you receive this in time for me to get your letter before our departure. We pay 7£ for our rooms a week and dine in a private room at an excellent restaurateurs. Every thing seems dearer than in England, wine excepted. The best Champagne is 7s a bottle; Capital wine for 2s. I have been to the first Milliners for a hat. None under 4£ so I got one for 2£ at another place, a high crowned Spanish black Velvet Cap & great plumes of high black feathers, as E. could not bear the great French bonnets, which seem general & very short waist, Silk pellisses with full backs & capes: the French work magnificent. The people seem all happy & idle Paris is like one splendid fair. No severe anxious business faces as in London. Ba enjoys every thing as much as we do. E. waits to take me out. They both unite with me in kindest Love to you my dearest Father &c.
Ever your most affecte child
MMB——
All is perfectly tranquil. The weather is like what we have in June, quite delightful & warm.
Madame Catalani is living here & performs. I shall certainly visit her.
Address, on integral page: Mrs. Graham Clarke / Fenham House / Newcastle upon Tyne / England.
Publication: None traced.
Manuscript: Eton College Library
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