[Lynton—Tuesday, 13 July 1869]
Tuesday 13. Left Lynton early (by 8 o’clock) for Ilfracombe by carriage. The day was perfect, the whole scene most lovely. Over bits of moor, between high hedges with the purple heather coming out in friezes along the way, rounding headlands with the grand sea almost always in view. We came in this way before noon to Ilfracombe our first glimpse of a real English watering-place in full blast. The sea winds were blowing most deliciously through every part of the great hotel which was like a castle in size and magnificence of stone work and decoration. We found a poor little lace maker in the town for we are in the country of Honiton lace and we were delayed, partly by the lace and in part by the queer old woman I dare say into buying a good deal of lace. She comes from Sidmouth. But of course the great delight was to lay upon the rocks & try to fancy ourselves once more at home.
We were astounded at the work of men’s hands here, the wonderful walls and walks and houses. Money has flowed like water to accomplish these things. How we hated to leave Ilfracombe!