[Ilfracombe—Wednesday, 14 July 1869]

Wednesday. Came by stage to Dunstable where we saw more quaint signs and names. An inn called “The Ring of Bells” a firm, Hortop & Petter. “The Mortal Man” was the name of an inn near Troutbeck in the Lake country. We arrived in Torquay before night by rail.

We found this place like a bit of Italy, looking out on a summer sea. For the first time we found the day had really been warm; the climate is as different from Ilfracombe as possible. Our hotel overlooked the sea here also but there were no dashing waves. The surroundings & the house indeed persuaded us we were in a palace—anything more refined quiet and retired it would have been impossible to find. The rock-work of the gardens was so beautifully arranged that I determined to copy it someday if possible on a small scale at home.

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